Humm- - -where to start?- - -I guess the first thing to consider is the fountain’s “footprint”- - - the amount of real estate it’s going to occupy. This is important because too small of a footprint virtually guarantees you are going to have water splashing out of the basin. Here are just a couple of examples:
When planning your fountain, use this general “splash formula”: THE SPLASH RADIUS IS 75% OF THE DISTANCE THAT THE WATER FALLS.
If you cannot provide an adequate sized basin, then here are a couple of splash controlling aids.
- Make the water level in the pond much lower to allow the pond wall to be a barrier- - if possible.
- Add “spiky” vertical water plants- - this is a good (& attractive) method, but may not be 100% effective.
- Provide a bronze screen at water level- - the most effective method, but is dependent upon maintaining a constant water level.
ITEM NEXT would be to decide on the plumbing/recirculating system- - - submersible pump or separate equipment set? The ideal is to build the fountain just like a spa (minus the heater)- - but this is cost prohibitive for all except the most grandest of estates- - -so the most common system is the submersible pump.
WARNING- - WARNING- - -WARNING!!!- - -you cannot fit a pump into a 12” x 12” x 12”sump- - -18” x 18” x 12” deep is the absolute minimum!!!- - “Hardibacker” is great for making sump covers
The best overall solution is our ”Black Box”- - -this is a self-contained buriable resevoir that contains a high quality submersible pump, water replenishment float valve, outlets for plumbing, overflow, electrical cord & all the little specialty items required for ease of installation.
It can be located up to 10’ from the fountain & works with all types of fountains, whether the basin is at ground level or elevated.
NOW LETS THINK ABOUT THE PLUMBING, & setting up for the spout (or spitter- - or spigot- - or scupper- - or mask- - or whatever you want to call it). Keep in mind that the connection at the back of the spout always takes place within the wall- - -there just is not enough space at the back of the spout for a fitting to connect to a pipe that protrudes from the wall & still allow the spout to set tight to the wall. I can’t begin to guess how many times someone has come looking for a spout for their “finished” fountain where the supply pipe is protruding out of a wall of expensive tile & they have no choice but to break out a section of the tile, chistle out the grout & clean the pipe to accept a coupling- - -“ I just hate it when that happens!!!”
Here is a generic guideline for installing a spout:
ONE LAST CAVIAT- - -a single stream of water pouring into your fountain sounds like a horse is peeing in it- - - - a funny thing to chuckle about at a yard party, but not too cool to live with everyday. Three or more streams do not sound like three horses- - it sounds like a fountain. So I suggest that you plan on three (or more) spouts, or have the spout pour into a wall bowl with scuppers.
Hopefully this little dissertation will aid you (or your designer or contractor) in having a “good” fountain producing experience.
AND- - -if we can help, just give us a shout.